ruins at copan

sacrifical podium for the macaws

one of the stelae loaded with hieroglyphic metaphores - the square knot near the top indicates the ruler is getting old and will be handing his power over to his son (one of the few details i actually remembered!)

a large serpent statue

carving of a monster with big fangs

detail from one of the stelae

trees, really big trees, sprouding up everywhere

view of the Central Plaza - the ball court (2nd largest in Central America) and the Hieroglyphic Stairway which is covered by a tarp for protection. Apparently the captain of the losing team was beheaded after the game



one of the stelae covered in hieroglyphics giving a pictoral history

the wild macaws in flight

So after our "big adventure" into San Salvador we decided to hire a tour guide with 2 other cruiser couples (Max and Sandy on Volo and Brian and Terri on Traveller). In 3-days 2-nights Jorge drove us across El Salvador to Joya de Ceren, San Andres, Santa Ana and finally into Copan where we spent the night. The next day we toured the Copan archiological Ruinas and arrived in Antigua, Guatemala in the evening. The third day we took a tour of one of the convents. Well, actually they did the tour while I shopped for huipiles. We arrived back at the marina just after dark the third day. We all agreed it was an amazing tour, Jorge was a terrific guide and it felt like traveling with family (in a good way). I would definitely recommend Jorge for anyone wanting to tour any of these countries. http://www.tourinelsalvador.com/. We learned a lot about the culture and the history and he's passionate about making El Salvador a place to visit.

I was particularly impressed with the ruines outside Copan. It was a photographer's paradise and I have a zillion pictures to show but will only post a few here. You can check the shutterfly photo blog for the rest. Here's a brief overview of the information I came away with. Oh and I should mention while we were there a flock of wild macaws were flying back and forth in the trees. It's the first time I've ever seen them in the wild and it was heart-stopping. Okay on to the background info:

Copan ruinas culturally dominated the region for centuries producing sculptures and hieroglyphics – called the Paris of the Mayan world. Since 1200 BC crafts and trade thrived. About 426 AD the royal family began its rule. Not much info about the early kings but they sure have colorful names: Mat Head, Waterlily Jaguar, Moon Jaguar, Smoke Jaguar, 18 Rabbit, Smoke Monkey, and Smoke Shell. 18 Rabbit commissioned many of the sculptures saw on our tour. He was quite a military conqueror but lost his head (literally) in the end. Once Smoke Monkey came into power things began to decline. His son, Smoke Shell, built the ir most important monument, the great Hieroglyphic Stairway immortalizing achievements of the dynasty bearin the longest inscription ever discovered in the Maya kingdom. Archeologists are still debating what happened to end this dynasty but currently it’s believed the increased population strained the valley’s agricultural resources. As the residents expanded out and up the steep slopes, deforestation caused erosion lowering aricultural production and causing floods during rains. This lead to more diseases so people died younger. With fewer people living in the area the jungle soon took over as you can see from the trees sprouting all over the place. Most of the trees I'm told are only 70-80 years old!

carbs a comin'

oh oh, carbs here we come

i got one of the bird nests!!!!!

the church off the zocolo

termites

what a day of gifts for me. jim mentioned to enrique, the guy who cleaned our boat, that i wanted one of the long bird nests and how could i get one. he came back last evening with the most beautiful and intricate nest i could imagine. i was thrilled. it's now safely packed away. i've been told they build them, use them once, then they're abandoned. it will travel with us until we bring the boat home.

today i'm baking bread, my first attempt in many many years. jack from mandan came by with his sour dough started and showed me how to manage it on a boat - a mixed blessing, i know, considering my addiction to carbs. what a great experience and it smells fabulous as it's baking.

weaving weather forecasts in huatulco

shuttles hanging from one of the looms

good luck piece on one of the looms

yes it's a real cactus but not sure why they're hanging at each end of this loom

upstairs at the weavers

undyed yarn

i spent yesterday exploring around the zocolo (town square/park). someone showed me the best fruiteria (pictures on another day). i also found a local weaver and other local artisians. there're a lot of items from oaxaca and guatemala here and it's hard to find the local artists. the folks at the weaving shop were friendly and allowed me to take pictures. the next weaver posted signs and said i had to ask permission and give a tip! i noticed the men do the weaving pulling a cord to send the shuttle back and forth. the women do the sewing.

on the walk back i was daydreaming about the long bird nests, wondering how i'd get one, and i wasn't watching where i was walking.  oops.  i took a nasty fall and spent the rest of last evening icing my foot while flat on my back. today it's much better and i can hobble around.

weather continues to concern us. it appears the high in texas is gaining strength which, in a few days, will send strong winds across the yucatan peninsula (gaining strength) and out into the bay - the bay we have to cross heading south. so it looks like we'll be here through the weekend.

hautulco - finally

sunrise with a dolphin in front of the boat

yellow path of sunrise

standing watch - looking for wind

We finally arrived in Huatulco yesterday afternoon.  As I said earlier, it was a long, hot and boring passage that seemed to take forever.  A few bright spots along the way.  Sunrises and sunsets were a welcome bit of color in an otherwise drab trip.  several things stand out for me:  turtles floating on the water, oblivious to our passing.  Dolphins, lots and lots of dolphins, at the bow of the boat jumping out of the the water, twisting and flopping back down.  Our last night out in pitch blackness before the moon came up, we were surrounded by dolphins trailing phosphorescence underwater.  Squiggles of neon stretching out from the boat in all directions.  Then jumping and twisting and splashing back into fountains of neon green.  

journal entry.  i'm surrounded by greyness.  a thick impenetrable wall of grey except near the sky, a glimpse of sunrise.  the morning is having difficulty pulling itself away from the night.  water sloshes against the hull as we sway into the wind at 3 kn.  it's nearly 8am now and sunlight has filtered through the grey layering, a glistening yellow path directly ahead of us.

you call this sleep?

the cockpit would be a comfortable place to sleep if the benches were wider

If you’re not interested in the fine nuances of overnight passages, you can avoid this piece.

We start watches at 6pm with 2 hours on, 2 hours off, until 4am the following morning. Sleep, at some point is critical. This passage, from Zihautanejo to Hautulco, was hot and slow with almost no wind. Attempting to sleep down below was almost impossible. I prefer the v berth in the bow, Jim prefers the seatee in the main area. Here’s what it’s like for me to get the slightest bit of shut-eye.

I crawl into the v berth which feels like a wet diaper. Dampness everywhere. I flop face down like a steamrollered snow angel. Strategically flattened between 2 small fans and the open hatch above. Not a great position considering I’m suffering from a head cold and sinus infection, but necessary to prevent constant body rolling. Soon I’m flying up and down in sync with the bow. Fun ride if you’re 8 but not so good if you’re trying to sleep. Then the sounds. Wham blamblamblam. Wham blamblamblam. Thwack.  Thwack.  Thwack. Swish swish gurgle gurgle, swish swish gurgle gurgle. Oh, and it’s 4pm so it’s bright daylight and I'm trying to trick my body into it being night.  It's hard work.  You call this sleep?

5 days of grey

just before sunset

looking aft before sunset - glassy smooth water = no wind

shades of grey

just after sunset - the camera enhanced the color, it's still grey in all directions

The passage from Zihautanejo to Puerto Marques (4.5 miles south of Acapulco) took 3 very long days. Almost all sailing at a snail’s pace. We stopped in Marquez to refuel then head back a couple hours later. The rest of the trip, to Hautulco, was 2 days of windless grey. 20 miles off shore with overcast skies that melted into the water with no visible separation. Hot, long and boring. Not much else to say. We were even too hot and bored to eat, and you know how we travel on our stomachs.