Sunday, December 6, 2009

eating and walking and eating in morelia nov. 09

dinner out with our terrific B&B host lino - to san migelito restaurant. according to lino, if you're single and looking for a partner, you ask 13 friends for coins and get a statue of san antonio and put him on his head. this corner of the restaurant was for singles i guess because the walls were covered with upsidedown san antonios. also, according to lino, if you want to sell your house you bury a statue of san jose.

a mural on one of the walls - i knew i should have written it down.

in the state building, an alter for the holidays.


lino took us up a winding hill for a view of morelia. morelia is the state capitol of michoachan. it feels like a european city with wide streets, well-dressed business people and tons of shoe stores.








what follows is from my journal. we're on the move again, on the bus to morelia. not the fancy bus like prima plus but a very local bus. i look out the window through a white smear of graffitti. well-worn seats burst their coverings and smells of unidentifiable fruit cross my nose as more passengers climb aboard in this unknown puebla. music (mexican) blares from the front and the only fresh air comes from the ceiling hatch barely cracked open. horns honk outside as the bus gears engage. i'm wedged into the window seat packed tight as a UPS parcel. my feet are wedged around the large mesh bag of ceramics and my purse is across my lap. there's barely enough room to move the pen across the paper. and now we get a real live commercial as a young man is standing at the front of the bus talking about something that comes in a green box. words i understand - medicos, miligros, me trabajo. i think it has to do with skin (piel). oh and i hear infectios. it sounds like it's supposed to cure everything including gastro problems. 10 minutes later he's still talking. how easy it is to let the words float past, almost like a song with disconnected words of familiarity. in and out of this live ad i go.
it took just an hour on the bus - pleasant but i can't wait to wash my hands and pee. in the taxi, always without a seat belt in the backseat, the warm air feels good on my face - weather continues to be perfect.
our very first meal in morelia was at puente el tigre. the mole and arroz. well jim said it's the best he's had in mexico. i agree as i keep dipping my finger in his mole.
mercedes restaurant - oh my, possibly the best meal yet in mexico. i had crepes cuitachuil - mushrooms and corn w/queso and the music was perfectly timed when paloma hit a high note as i cut into the crepe. we were the only people here for quite some time and had a chance to practice our spanish with el mesero. the decor is amazing - large pieces of stone, high ceilings, unusual masks and carvings. and the margaritas were the best so far.
we didn't just eat. we really did walk around and look at things and take pictures. like what you see above.

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